Hard Wood Flooring Tips

Many people are now considering hardwood flooring as an alternative to carpets, rugs, vinyl, stone or ceramic tiles. Hardwood flooring is made using timber from durable hardwoods such as oak and black walnut, or spruce or hard pine. And now hardwood flooring is easier to install than ever before. You can have it installed professionally, or via do-it-yourself kits.

Hardwood floors are made in two basic ways. Some are unfinished and are then sanded and polished once fitted, others are pre-finished in the factory for quick installation. Pre-finished hardwood floors have a polyurethane finish with added metal oxide finishes to increase their longevity.

Most solid hardwood floors are sold as 19mm thick planks. You can also get planks in 10mm and 8mm thickness. This kind of hardwood flooring is then installed using nails onto a wooden sub floor.

Although a popular installation method, tests have found it is more likely to suffer moisture and temperature degradation if fitted over a concrete slab. Hardwoods such as oak are susceptible to moisture and temperature changes because they expand and contract, changing temporarily the width of the grain. Experts say you should avoid installing hardwood flooring over concrete slabs unless the manufacturer guarantees suitability.

Pre-finished hardwood flooring can range in thickness because of the way it is made using layered veneers to create the finish. The level of thickness can vary between 8mm and 14mm. These levels can also depend on specifications and processes used by the individual manufacturer.

There are three basic processes whereby manufacturers create the veneer. They are the rotary peel, the sliced peel, and the dry solid-sawn. The rotary peel suffers problems whereby the wood veneer curls back to its original shape. It is popularly known as “face checking” and is a manufacturing defect which gives the hardwood a cheap, plywood–looking grain.

The sliced peel doesn’t suffer from the same issues as the rotary peel. However, it can splinter or crack due to the way it is submersed under water and then pressed flat during the veneer layering process.

Dry solid-sawn is the best process to use. The veneer layer is created in a similar fashion to the way solid hardwood planks are produced. The dry solid-sawn pre-finished flooring has an excellent look to it – much as you would expect from an authentic solid hardwood – and doesn’t suffer from “face checking” because moisture is never added to the wood.

Pre-finished hardwood is created by layering the veneer in stacks so that the grain of the wood in each layer is perpendicular to the other. Layering the veneer until the thickness required is obtained, each board is cut into the desired width. The boards are then given tongue or groove edges for easier installation and fitting. Finally, stain is added if necessary, and a finish. The finish will help to protect the wood against moisture or temperature change. Because the wood will expand and contract because of temperature and moisture change along the width of the grain direction, pre-finished hardwood flooring is seen by professionals as dimensionally stable.

You will notice that the grain of solid hardwood planks runs in the same direction. This means that they are less stable and are not suitable to concrete. Pre-finished hardwood flooring can be glued to concrete directly because of its inherent dimensional stability.

You will be able to check out samples of hardwood flooring – both solid and pre-finished at your local hardware store, DIY outlet, or flooring specialist. Now you’re armed with more information about hardwood flooring you are better prepared to look for the product that suits your needs.

Just as your car needs a change of oil from time to time, your tires need their air pressure testing, and the radiator needs filling with antifreeze, your hardwood floor needs maintenance too.

Here are some tips on how to keep your hardwood floor looking as good as new.

Dirt and grit can really harm hardwood flooring because they act like sandpaper against it. To keep grit and dirt off the floor, place mats or small rugs/pieces of carpet near entrance doors to trap dirt before it gets on the hardwood floor.

Vacuum every week. Use the brush attachment on your vacuum cleaner to keep dirt off the hardwood floor. Sweep or use a dust mop often to keep dirt from settling on the floor. Do not, however, use dust treatments such as wood polish as this can make the floor slippery, it can dull the finish, and even make it difficult to re-coat properly.

Be careful with microfiber pads. These can be good for cleaning your hardwood floors but check with the manufacturer beforehand as microfiber pads can catch wood fibers causing the floor to splinter and expose unfinished wood.

It is vital that the wood finish is fully cured. Between seven and ninety days should be allowed depending on the type of finish. This is to prevent any rugs, rug pads, and pieces of carpet placed on the floor from affecting the finish and leaving a print or mark on the wood.

Rug pads should be used for any rugs you place on the hardwood floor (however, kitchen mats are okay without a rug pad). Rug pads should either be 100% non-solvent-based waffle-type rubber, an untreated natural fiber such as wool and jute, or one-quarter inch chopped urethane. Do not use any kind of sticky tape as the plasticizers can discolour the wood. The same type of plasticizers are also present on the back of some rugs.

For the kitchen, use rugs at places where you’re likely to see spillages such as near the sink, and at the stove and oven. It’s also a good idea to place a rug under the refrigerator. Cotton is the best fabric to use because it is easily cleaned. Because some finishes are affected by ultraviolet light and heat, which can cause wood and finishes to change color and age more quickly, move area rugs occasionally, and shade large windows.

Always clean up spills promptly. Use a dry cloth or a paper towel. For sticky spills use a lightly moistened cloth but always wipe the floor with a dry cloth afterwards.

The process by which engineered hardwood flooring is obtained is by layering laminate veneer over real wood. Using high heat and pressure, three to five layers of hardwood is glued or laminated together in a cross-grain fashion. This makes engineered hardwood floors very strong and durable. Because temperature and moisture can affect wood floors, engineered hardwood is manufactured with preventative measures. Humidity or temperature change creates expanding and contracting movement in the wood but with engineered hardwood having its layers placed on top of each other with the wood grain in reverse directions, this natural condition is avoided. So, if you have a moist environment, the engineered floor is more suitable than a solid wood floor.

Unlike solid wood floors, engineered wood flooring can be fitted over many different types of sub floor and can be used on all levels of a building. It can also be cost-effective by using an expensive wood for the finished layer but less expensive wood for lower layers. Engineered hardwood flooring is also cheaper to install because the wood is even and flat, and can be easily matched to grain and color.

And engineered wood can be made to easily fit into your style, taste, or to perfectly fit with current décor. This is because it can be sanded and stained in much the same way as solid hardwood flooring. It is available in the same sizes and thicknesses as natural hardwood, and can be bought in strip style or wither plank floorboards.

If you are a fan of hardwood floors – you like the look and feel of them, and want one or more in your home – engineered hardwood floors are a great idea. You don’t have to worry about the effects of expansion and contraction of the wood with engineered hardwood flooring, and you’ll save money by going with this option over solid hardwood. Look around the internet for examples of grain and color, and visit showrooms, flooring specialists, and DIY stores to get an idea of what is on offer. Soon you’ll be the proud owner of a great looking hardwood floor.

Your new hardwood floor looks great doesn’t it? Let’s keep it that way.

New hardwood floors will start off shiny and clean, but without proper care and attention can quickly dull and become streaked. It doesn’t matter whether you’ve inherited an old hardwood floor or installed a new one, learn how to protect and maintain it to keep the floor looking shiny, clean and refreshed.

You should be careful which cleaning products you use on your hardwood floor. The best commercial cleaning products are those manufactured by the hardwood flooring companies themselves. These are better than other cleaning products because they are specially formulated to polish the polyurethane seal found on the majority of hardwood floors.

Watch out for cleaning methods that claim to be easy and cheap alternatives to commercial cleaning products. Never use vinegar water, lemon juice, or other home remedies to clean or shine your hardwood floor as these can damage the polyurethane finish. A good cleaning product has a balanced pH formula and won’t cause the polyurethane finish to crack or dull.

When cleaning, first sweep the floor with a soft-bristled (or “exploded” bristle) broom to remove any accumulated dirt or girt. You can also use a floor duster but don’t use wood-cleaning products designed for furniture as these can make the floor dangerously slippery. Clean the floor on a weekly basis and use a specifically designed cleaner for polyurethane finished floors.

For a great polish, use a specially formulated hardwood floor polish. Use a clean damp cloth to apply, and a dry cloth to polish.

Don’t worry if you need to restore a damaged or aged hardwood floor, as a professional can help. They will strip the polyurethane layers, re-sand the surface and then re-stain. Once this is done, a new layer of polyurethane will be applied to the wood. Then you’ll have a new-looking hardwood floor in your home. The task now is to go back to the beginning of this article and remind yourself how to keep it looking that way.

Asian Walnut hardwood floors – also known as Acacia – have become one of the most popular flooring choices around the world. Exotic species such as Asian Walnut and Brazilian Cherry are now challenging oak as the world’s favored hardwood floor.

Asian Walnut makes for a unique and beautiful hardwood floor, bringing character to any room. If you’re considering this type of hardwood floor, there are a few things you should know before buying.

Most Asian Walnut hardwood floors are sold with a factory-applied finish. This means that multiple, protective coats have been applied to the wood surface that protects the floor from wear and tear after installation. Factories will use either polyurethane, aluminium oxide, or a combination of the two. Acacia wood floors are best finished with a combination of both. You can buy the floor unfinished, but this means it has to have the protective coats added after installation, and this process will not produce as strong a finish as the one found direct from the factory.

This type of flooring is available in three different colors – natural, Cinnamon or Cherry, and, what is termed as “Smoke” or “Toffee”. Natural is most popular as it preserves the color of the original wood which, depending on the source, can be light or dark wood. Cinnamon, also known as Cherry, has added red hues to give it a more formal, classy appearance. This is a deep and dark color. “Smoke” or “Toffee” stained Asian Walnut floors look a little like Black Walnut. The stain isn’t actually very dark but it does have a much darker tone than the natural wood.

Asian Walnut can differ in colour from one board to the next. Ask your hardwood floor dealer for two samples to compare the varying characteristics of the wood. Once you’ve decided on your choice and dealer, buy one box and lay it out in your room. Does it look right? If it doesn’t you haven’t just wasted $1000 as you would have done had you purchased enough for the whole job.

For design and installation purposes you should know that Asian Walnut is almost always three-quarter inch solid board made for nailed down fitting. Because of its swirling and loose grain structure, the wood is one of the most unique-looking on the market. This characteristic grain pattern is particularly good for large rooms.

Another thing to know is that Asian Walnut trees are only small, especially in comparison to its counterpart the oak tree. Boards usually come in lengths of about four feet.

It’s also worth noting that Asian Walnut is a much harder wood than oak. This means it is less likely to be damaged by general wear and tear. The Janka Scale measures the hardness of hardwood species. Asian Walnut is measured at 2300 while oak is only measured at 1300.

When shopping for hardwood floors try local dealers, commercial home improvement stores, online flooring wholesalers, and even liquidators. The local stores and large home improvement outlets will have high prices but at least offer warranties or guarantees. Liquidators will give you competitive prices but no warranty. Online retailers will have competitive prices and ship out free samples so are probably your best choice.