Hardwood floors are made in two basic ways. Some are unfinished and are then sanded and polished once fitted, others are pre-finished in the factory for quick installation. Pre-finished hardwood floors have a polyurethane finish with added metal oxide finishes to increase their longevity.

Most solid hardwood floors are sold as 19mm thick planks. You can also get planks in 10mm and 8mm thickness. This kind of hardwood flooring is then installed using nails onto a wooden sub floor.

Although a popular installation method, tests have found it is more likely to suffer moisture and temperature degradation if fitted over a concrete slab. Hardwoods such as oak are susceptible to moisture and temperature changes because they expand and contract, changing temporarily the width of the grain. Experts say you should avoid installing hardwood flooring over concrete slabs unless the manufacturer guarantees suitability.

Pre-finished hardwood flooring can range in thickness because of the way it is made using layered veneers to create the finish. The level of thickness can vary between 8mm and 14mm. These levels can also depend on specifications and processes used by the individual manufacturer.

There are three basic processes whereby manufacturers create the veneer. They are the rotary peel, the sliced peel, and the dry solid-sawn. The rotary peel suffers problems whereby the wood veneer curls back to its original shape. It is popularly known as “face checking” and is a manufacturing defect which gives the hardwood a cheap, plywood–looking grain.

The sliced peel doesn’t suffer from the same issues as the rotary peel. However, it can splinter or crack due to the way it is submersed under water and then pressed flat during the veneer layering process.

Dry solid-sawn is the best process to use. The veneer layer is created in a similar fashion to the way solid hardwood planks are produced. The dry solid-sawn pre-finished flooring has an excellent look to it – much as you would expect from an authentic solid hardwood – and doesn’t suffer from “face checking” because moisture is never added to the wood.

Pre-finished hardwood is created by layering the veneer in stacks so that the grain of the wood in each layer is perpendicular to the other. Layering the veneer until the thickness required is obtained, each board is cut into the desired width. The boards are then given tongue or groove edges for easier installation and fitting. Finally, stain is added if necessary, and a finish. The finish will help to protect the wood against moisture or temperature change. Because the wood will expand and contract because of temperature and moisture change along the width of the grain direction, pre-finished hardwood flooring is seen by professionals as dimensionally stable.

You will notice that the grain of solid hardwood planks runs in the same direction. This means that they are less stable and are not suitable to concrete. Pre-finished hardwood flooring can be glued to concrete directly because of its inherent dimensional stability.

You will be able to check out samples of hardwood flooring – both solid and pre-finished at your local hardware store, DIY outlet, or flooring specialist. Now you’re armed with more information about hardwood flooring you are better prepared to look for the product that suits your needs.

Here are some tips on how to keep your hardwood floor looking as good as new.

Dirt and grit can really harm hardwood flooring because they act like sandpaper against it. To keep grit and dirt off the floor, place mats or small rugs/pieces of carpet near entrance doors to trap dirt before it gets on the hardwood floor.

Vacuum every week. Use the brush attachment on your vacuum cleaner to keep dirt off the hardwood floor. Sweep or use a dust mop often to keep dirt from settling on the floor. Do not, however, use dust treatments such as wood polish as this can make the floor slippery, it can dull the finish, and even make it difficult to re-coat properly.

Be careful with microfiber pads. These can be good for cleaning your hardwood floors but check with the manufacturer beforehand as microfiber pads can catch wood fibers causing the floor to splinter and expose unfinished wood.

It is vital that the wood finish is fully cured. Between seven and ninety days should be allowed depending on the type of finish. This is to prevent any rugs, rug pads, and pieces of carpet placed on the floor from affecting the finish and leaving a print or mark on the wood.

Rug pads should be used for any rugs you place on the hardwood floor (however, kitchen mats are okay without a rug pad). Rug pads should either be 100% non-solvent-based waffle-type rubber, an untreated natural fiber such as wool and jute, or one-quarter inch chopped urethane. Do not use any kind of sticky tape as the plasticizers can discolour the wood. The same type of plasticizers are also present on the back of some rugs.

For the kitchen, use rugs at places where you’re likely to see spillages such as near the sink, and at the stove and oven. It’s also a good idea to place a rug under the refrigerator. Cotton is the best fabric to use because it is easily cleaned. Because some finishes are affected by ultraviolet light and heat, which can cause wood and finishes to change color and age more quickly, move area rugs occasionally, and shade large windows.

Always clean up spills promptly. Use a dry cloth or a paper towel. For sticky spills use a lightly moistened cloth but always wipe the floor with a dry cloth afterwards.